Coffee in Italy. Espresso, what else?
COFFEE IN ITALY. WHY STARBUCKS DOESN’T WORK FOR ITALIANS?
To be successful in a foreign country, it is important to try to “act locally”. By talking about localism, in this article, you’ll find out why Starbucks’ business model has found it difficult to fit in with the Italian culture.
First of all, what is coffee for Italians? Coffee in Italy is something much more than a simple beverage. It has a social, cultural, and anthropological role, crucial and indispensable for the country. So, it’s not surprising that there is a whole system of rituals and behaviors about and around coffee in Italy. Everything is about the social value that coffee has for Italians. To the point of making it a real ritual, an unavoidable moment in the day for millions of people. Not only to enjoy the drink itself, but for the opportunity to socialize and share.
Known as il galateo del caffè this is the Italian coffee etiquette people rigorously observe. Its rules have been developed and perfected in order to obtain the best flavor and maximum pleasure out of a small cup of coffee.
“Coffee in Italy is something much more than a simple beverage. It has a social, cultural and anthropological role, crucial and indispensable for the country. “
The culture’s coffee is a unique aspect that distinguishes Italy from the rest of the world. This is why Starbucks set the coffee world abuzz when it announced the plan to open its first Italian store in the city of Milan.
Starbucks is the biggest coffee chain in the world. They offer their customers a different concept of coffee consumption compared to the traditional Italian one. While the CEO Howard Shultz took inspiration from Italy, the Starbucks approach to coffee is very different from the Italian coffee culture. Italians are certainly passionate about coffee. But for most of them, it has been difficult to enjoy it the way Starbucks typically serves it: from drip coffee makers, and in elaborate combinations like the Frappuccino. Italians also like making coffee at home, and when they go out for it, they like to drink espresso shots and not so much expensive cappuccinos while standing at the bar.
So which are the main challenges Starbucks has to deal with in the “Land of Espresso”?
WHICH ARE THE MAIN CHALLENGES?
As soon as Starbucks landed in Italy, it had to face some difficulties in order to satisfy the stern opinion of Italians, and still today it is fighting with some cultural differences. First of all, Italians do not really appreciate chains of coffeehouses. Independent cafes and bars make up 89% of the Italian market. While, as USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) report says, chains represented only 0.6% of Italian coffee consumption.
Italians mostly enjoy coffee at home: 75% of Italians drink coffee at home, and this is a ritual they will never give up to.
Moreover, Italians are firmly loyal to local coffee suppliers. The Italian brand Lavazza dominates coffee sales with a 36.9% market share. Local brands are an expression of tradition. The lack of international players in Italy is also due to the strong customs in food and drink.
What increases the value of drinking a coffee at the bar is the experience behind it. In terms of career opportunities, for Americans working in a cafè is a stepping stone to more professional employment, rather than a lifetime vocation. Instead, the italian barista has coffee-making as fine and refined art.
Another of the main factors people in the Belpaese are resistant to Starbucks’ coffee is certainly the high price. Why should an Italian pay for an “overpriced coffee”? In his mind, he could get a higher quality coffee for just one euro in a random bar located in every city’s corner.
Facts reported below are useful to understand why it took Starbucks so long to step into the Italian market. It is key to recognize just how different American and Italian coffee culture are, and how interwoven with national identity and values the latter is. It is so important that it is practically considered a social right.
ITALIAN MARKET
Italy is a very difficult market. This is because of the country’s strong and prevalent culture so different from the American giant’s products and atmosphere. Starbucks is designed to serve customers quickly and efficiently. But in Italy, you go to a cafè precisely for leisure and long, winding conversations with your local barista, building a real and proper friendship and community. It is about slow food as opposed to American fast food. Think also about plastic cups, for instance. Italians do not like them. Why? They do not even consider the possibility of taking the coffee outside of the bar and drinking it while walking or driving. The coffee experience for Italians is much more personal and intimate than what any big chain store would be able to offer. But is is also about building relationships with the barista and the other customers.
“…it is key to recognize just how different American and Italian coffee cultures are. And how interwoven with national identity and values the latter is.”
Worldwide, people see Starbucks as a true symbol of American Culture.
When the first Italian store opened in Milan in 2018, hundreds of people waited hours just to get the American experience. This initially aroused a lot of curiosity. And there are also enough foreigners and tourists in Milan for a branch of Starbucks to survive there even without Italian clients. But Starbucks cannot compete with the familiarity of the Italian coffee bar, nor the prices.
The entering in the Italian market was and is still perceived by most Italians as an ideal far removed from their usual habits.
Their habits are certainly different from the concept of coffee break that Starbucks offers. Despite the modifications made in the Italian store, the perception of Italians does not change. There will always be the occasion to go to Starbucks for a recreational moment. But it will never be the first choice of an Italian. What pushes Italians away from this concept is the value that the Italian culture attributes to coffee.
This ideal is very intrinsic to Italian culture. It will be hard, if not impossible, to make the American lifestyle the main component of Italian habits.
Nevertheless, dear non-Italians readers, if you are visiting Italy – whether or not there is a Starbucks around – we suggest stopping into a real Italian bar or cafe for the authentic Italian coffee experience. The coffee may be a bit strong for your tastes, but as we say, “When in Rome…”
